Hogl Ried Schon-Viessling Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2006, 750 mlfrom Hogl (View all)
Beautiful spice, apple fruit, and a deep minerality mark this Gruner Veltliner from the remarkable Ried Schon-Viessling vineyard, which is famous for its soil of deep slate which also imparts hearty earth notes into the wine. Consisting of 58 individual terraces, the vineyard is primarily planted with Gruner Veltliner, and winemaker Josef Hogl considers it to be his most important vineyard. The soil is made up of pure decomposition of gneiss and mica slate. The mica creates unstable, layered rock formations which result in softer, more water-bearing areas between the weathered, firm layers. It is between these firm layers that the vines are able to root in extrordinarily deep, and so can avail the last reserves of water in a dry summer. Imported in 2007. Serve slightly chilled, and then taste as it opens up while returning to room temperature.
|Wine Spectator||93 - “Very balanced, rich and powerful, with intense flavors of smoke, peach, apricot, and spice. The long, extracted finish features mocha, with hints of tropical fruit and a lingering minerality. Drink now through 2015. 83 cases made.”|
|Falstaff Wine Guide||92 - “In the nose: restrained, fine hints of ripe yellow apple, subtle tropical fruit. Needs air. On the palate: fine spice, tight structure, very mineralic, pleasing apple fruit. A little rough on the finish. Currently only medium length.”|
|IWC||91 - “Medium green-yellow. Initially closed nose reveals some ripe yellow apple and a hint of tropical fruit with aeration. Finely spiced apple flavor is nicely interwoven in a tight mineral texture. The finish is presently a bit high-strung and still reined in, displaying only moderate length. But the structure of this wine promises an outstanding bottle and impressive longevity. Drink from 2009 to 2018.”|
|Bottle size (ml)||750 ml|
|Residual Sugar||4.3 g/l|
|Cellar potential||While ready now this is for the cellar. 20- 30 years of further development to be expected.|
Currently no reviews for this product
We find ourselves now deep in the Spitzer Graben, the valley where the Spitzerbach runs, which is too frequently bypassed by tourists enjoying an outing on or along the Danube.
Josef Högl, the best-known winegrower in the valley, calls it for this reason “the forgotten Wachau.”
Högl adds with a wry smile, “Everybody goes up and down the river or the highway, but only a few folks get lost and find their way to us.”
Some 100 hectares, a solid third of Spitz’s total plantings, are located in the Graben, and this expanse of terraces spreads itself out quite impressively on the hillsides.
Since the glen runs East-West from Spitz to Viessling, the vineyards enjoy a full South-Southwest exposure.
Josef Högl continues, “The Spitzer Graben is different from the rest of the Wachau. Not too far away from the Danube, but still different.” It is the coolest terroir in the noble district.
Here there is very little wind: the easterly breezes don’t make it into the Graben, and the frequently mentioned mountain-winds from Jauerling and the Waldviertel are clearly noticeable only in summer. The sun warms this small valley quite readily, but does so without drying things out.
The grapes require a lot of time to ripen, which makes for particular and finely-developed aromatics. In the warmer years, the cool nature of the place is in no way a disadvantage—the vines can regenerate themselves better from the heat-stress of the day.
The Wachau is one of 8 "sub-areas" in Lower Austria. The other 7 are Kremstal, Kamptal, Danubelands, Traisental, Carnuntum, Weinvertel, and Thermenregion. Calling this region "lower Austria" may seem counter-intuitive to most. The four main wine regions of Austria are all in the eastern half of the country, and lower Austria is the northernmost. One generally equates "North" with "upper", but not here. The explanation given is that it has to do with altitude and not latitude. Of course, while it is at a lower altitude than Styria and Vienna, it is not as low as Burgenland. Go figure.
The Wachau is perhaps the best known of the 8 sub-regions. There are 3500 acres of vines, mostly Gr?ner Veltliner and Riesling, planted in a soil of weathered primary rock, granite and slate on the steeply terraced vineyards above and sand and loess on the slope of the hills below. The area also grows Neuburger, Gelber Muskateller, Sauvignon Blanc, M?ller-Thurgau and Chardonnay. The regional association "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus" acts as a kind of DOC police for this area, labeling the wines under three classifications: Steinfeder (light, young and racy), Federspiel (elegant and with body), and Smaragd (very ripe and powerful). "Smaragd" literally means emerald, and is a reference to the color of the small lizards that run amok in the vines here. For more specifics on these classifications, see types of wines.
The Wachau's proximity to the Danube, which winds lazily past like some great fat serpent, adds to the amazing beauty of this place. In the spring the steep rising hills are a lush bright green and the apricot trees blossom madly. In the fall these hills seem almost ablaze with the turning leaves of the vineyards.