MORIC Alte Reben Neckenmarkt 2006, 750 mlfrom Moric (View all)
FROM DAVID SCHILDKNECHT FOR ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE:
Velich’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben delivers the predictable aromas and flavors of concentrated black fruits, along with sweetly smoky suggestions of machine oil and Szechuan pepper, as well as pungently smoky Lapsang tea. Here, the animal and mineral aspects seem to merge into a concentrate of soy, sea water, and beef stock. Rich and silken-textured, this wine’s tannins are so refined as to have melted away. A deep, low-toned, multi-dimensional, rolling finish washes over the palate, leaving behind invigorating brightness of fruit, subtle fruit pit bitterness, and a shimmering diversity of mineral suggestions that one feels must somehow reflect this wine’s origins in the Urgestein upper elevations of Neckenmarkt. I would tentatively plan on following this for a decade, but as to having some in your cellar to follow, that plan ought not in the least be tentative!
Various reviews and tastings have named these notes in the wine: mulberry, forest floor, blackberry, smoked meat, wood smoke, black fruits, black tea, sandalwood, roasted root vegetables, black skinned berries, tanned leather (Hermes, we would guess).
|Wine Advocate||95 - “Velich’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter Alte Reben delivers the predictable aromas and flavors of concentrated black fruits, along with sweetly smoky suggestions of machine oil and Szechuan pepper, as well as pungently smoky Lapsang tea. Here, the animal and mineral aspects seem to merge into a concentrate of soy, sea water, and beef stock. Rich and silken-textured, this wine’s tannins are so refined as to have melted away. A deep, low-toned, multi-dimensional, rolling finish washes over the palate, leaving behind invigorating brightness of fruit, subtle fruit pit bitterness, and a shimmering diversity of mineral suggestions that one feels must somehow reflect this wine’s origins in the Urgestein upper elevations of Neckenmarkt. I would tentatively plan on following this for a decade, but as to having some in your cellar to follow, that plan ought not in the least be tentative!”|
|Decanter||5 Stars - “Cranberry, black raspberry and rosehip laced with mineral and peppered earth tones. Long, ripe and cool with suave acidity and tannins. Drink 2009-2018.”|
|Wine & Spirits||93 - “This is impressive for the way it harnesses its bold, ripe depth of fruit, feeling rich while also demonstrating sophisticated poise and detailed complexity. Its spicy cassis and blueberry flavors are backed by hints of menthol, roasted coffee beans and tobacco leaf, showing confident energy and persistent, focused aromas.”|
|Bottle size (ml)||750 ml|
|Residual Sugar||1.6 g/l|
|Cellar potential||Very long term|
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Moric Estate Video Series
In a series of interviews conducted in 2009, Roland Velich sheds light on the his vision for Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, the origins of his project, his winemaking and grape growing philosophy and many other aspects of Moric.
The Moric Estate
"I believe the world of wine is so fed up with uniform wines, produced with the goal of achieving a maximum of points in a tasting and not with the motivation of creating from the raw materials that are at disposal, namely soil, climate and varietal, a product that is singular, because of the fact that it can only grow in this one place.
Multi-layered, expressive, maybe even mysterious but certainly delicate, those are the attributes that have allowed wine to exhilarate men for centuries.
An ancient cultural artifact, that under the influence of capitalism with all its facets runs the risk of deteriorating to a mere industrial product. Fast money creates fast wines and there it is the fast wine to go with our fast food.
No friend of wine really wants this and even the so called wine industry won't want it anymore once they realize how they have shot themselves in the foot." Roland Velich
David Schildknecht, the Austrian specialist for Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, describes Roland Velich and his Moric wines this way: "Roland Velich is no longer working with his brother Heinz at the family estate in Apetlon, but is pursuing his own dream, working with old vines in the heart of “Blaufrankisch country” – Mittelburgenland, specifically Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt.
(Only his winery is located in Grosshoflein.)
His are wines in a style you will not encounter anywhere else in Austria: Blaufrankisch vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy, and from hillsides (including terraces) and pre-clonal vines the like of which you will not find being cultivated in most of Mittelburgenland. One sip is an Oz experience (and I don’t mean Aussie, mates!). From his dreams, to his vines, to his vinification, to his retro label, Velich is in a world of his own. He calls his project “Blaufrankisch Unplugged” (and Moric – the derivation of which I shall explain another time – is pronounced like “Moritz”). "
Roland Velich interviewed by Christian Seiler in March of 2009
"In Search of Excellence: The Moric Project" The long story to the Moric project, by importer Stephan Schindler
Moric on Vinography.com / Alder Yarrow's fantastic review of the Moric wines.
Burgenland is made up of 4 "sub-areas" and covers 19,215 hectares, which is about 48,000 acres. The dominating geographical influence here is the Neusiedler Lake (Neusiedlersee), and the 4 subdivided areas are called Southern Burgenland (Südburgenland), Central Burgenland (Mittelburgenland), Neusiedler Lake (Neusiedlersee) and the Neusiedler Lake Highlands (Neusiedlersee-Hügelland)
From the northernmost Neusiedlersee area comes full-bodied white wines, including the countries best Chardonnays. This is also an area where great red wines are produced, including those from the "Pannobile" co-operative who age their wines in oak.
Due to the vineyards proximity to the lake and their location in the hot Pannonian climate zone, their grapes more often than not develop the "noble rot" (botrytis cinerea) which creates heady dessert wines. The region stretches along the Hungarian border, right across which Tokaji is being made.
The town of Rust, in the Neusiedler Lake Highlands, is where the famous Ruster Ausbruch dessert wine is made. This is also where storks come to roost every year, building their enormous nests on the roof of every building along the main roads. They make a clicking sound which is somewhere between a woodpecker and a jackhammer, and as you sit at the heuriger (wine garden) drinking the afternoon away, the potential cacophony becomes something of a symphony.
When one drives south into Mittleburgenland, the sign on the door reads: Willkommen in Blaufränkischland!
They're not one bit shy about hanging their hat on the native variety most capable of producing memorable and ageworthy red wines, bottlings frequently exhibiting great depth and class. Additionally among the 2100 hectares of vineyard, one finds Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zweigelt planted, quite frequently appearing as welcome supporting characters in the Blaufränkisch show.
Four municipalities bring the swing to the thing: Horitschon, Deutschkreutz, Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt. There are more than sixty individual growers to be found, plus a couple very fine co-ops. Sheltered by mountains and hills on three sides, the east lies open to the warm and dry winds from the Pannonian plain, which combines with the mostly rich water-retentive soils to provide ideal growing conditions.
Exceptions do apply, however, like the extremes of slate and limestone of Neckenmarkt. Here the grapes get to hang a little longer than they do up on either side of Lake Neusiedl, an added advantage in the quest for balance and depth.