The Full Story
MORIC Blaufrankisch 2005, 750 ml
from Moricin Mittelburgenland, Burgenland, Austria
(View all wines from Moric)
Roland Velich’s project, which has been called by some “Blaufrankisch Unplugged” , has created the Moric line of wines. This, the straight-up Moric Blaufrankisch, is considered the entry level, with the Moric Neckenmarkt next and the exquisite Alte Reben (“old vine”) bottlings at the top.
Which is not to say that this wine is anything less than great- such is the quality of all of the Moric offerings. In fact, the Moric wines garnered the best points ever given to an Austrian red wine in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Not a small achievement.
The Moric wines prove that, similar to those hailing from Burgundy, the cooler climatic regions of Austria can produce red wines with immense complexity and depth while retaining cool berry aromas and a racy backbone. The Moric Blaufrankisch 2005 shows subtle shadings of red and dark skinned berries, backed by hints of white pepper and spice. Lean and tight, yet juicy and ripe, the wine will open up with just a bit of air and present itself with elegance.
S. Irene Virbila, wine critic for the Los Angeles Times, writes: The 2005 Moric Blaufränkisch from Burgenland in eastern Austria has enough stuff to match any course in the intricate holiday meal. Stump all the wine aficionados at the table with this superb example from the Moric line of wines by Roland Velich, a Burgundy-obsessed producer who is showing that the ancient Blaufränkisch grape (known as Lemberger in Washington State and Kekfrankos in Hungary) can produce fascinating reds in white wine country. Very similar to Pinot Noir, this Blaufränkisch has a beautiful aroma of berries and sweet spices coupled with lean, elegant fruit. This wine is alive: Taste the way it changes in the glass.
Jon Bonne, wine critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, writes: In Austria’s Burgenland, Roland Velich is taking serious steps with a grape, Blaufrankisch, that’s usually reserved for everyday wines. Velich was taken with Burgundy, and now applies its precious practices to make Blaufrankisch that’s dense and age-worthy. This, his basic bottling, is an amazing introduction, with an almost austere profile of dusted black pepper, floral plum, coriander and juniper notes. It’s lovely stuff, just rich enough to be approachable, but a lighter-bodied tang is present, as though someone handpicked their favorite componants of Syrah and Pinot Noir. Lovers of either will warm to this.
