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A friend of mine made a bold statement in his recent review of an ‘entry level’ Grüner Veltliner:

“This is the best white wine in the world under 15 bucks”

A bold statement indeed. Of course, everyone knows wine dwells in the realm of opinion and preference. One person’s “best” wine is another’s plonk. I get a little queasy when it comes to labeling wine as the world’s best in any category (It must be the scientist in me. I haven’t yet been able to obtain a statistically valid sample of wines from around the world).

However, I have no problem in recommending Austrian GV to someone clutching fifteen dollars and seeking the best wine value for their bucks. Grüner is one of those wines about which a discouraging word is rarely, if ever heard. Why is that? Allow me to introduce my theory. I call it, “The Universally Valued Veltliner Law,” or UVV.

I began formulating UVV out of discord with my significant other. You see, I enjoy white wine immensely. She does not. I crave Teutonic Riesling. She calls it, “too sweet.” I dream about racy Sauvignon Blanc. She makes the I-just-brushed-my-teeth-and-then-drank-orange juice-face after sipping it. She only likes red wine. Nearly every time I try to slip a white wine into our dinner menu, she responds with terms like, “boring,” “ewww,” or “Can I open a bottle of red?” The only white wine about which she has never complained is young, fresh Grüner Veltliner.

Lest you think UVV is based only on at-home experience, allow me to strengthen this law with laboratory research. I often use GV in wine classes to introduce students to whites outside the Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Riesling circle. After watching hundreds of students sample Grüner Veltliner for the first time, I have never once heard, “I don’t like it.” Rather, the common refrain is, “Wow. This is good. What is it?”

Why is Grüner so universally adored? Two adjectives sum it up nicely: Bright and juicy. Young GV hits the tongue like a perfectly ripe peach - a lot of zest and freshness. This bright, juicy mouthfeel is irresistible. And, I firmly believe everyone should experience it at least once. To quote my bold statement-making friend, “If you don’t like these wines, I don’t want to be your friend.” I think that’s a little harsh. If you’re not a fan of young, fresh Grüner Veltliner, I’ll still be your friend, but I won’t offer you a glass.

Four bright & juicy & under $15 Grüner Veltliners to try:
Hogl Ried Schon Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2003 ($10.99)
Donabaum Spitzer Point Grüner Veltliner Federspiel ($12.99)
Kalmuck Grüner Veltliner 2004 ($12.99)
Hogl Terrassen Spitzergraben Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2003 ($14.99)

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